Ticking something off the list

I finally finished these black ginger jeans on Good Friday.  I've lost count of how many times I've made this pattern and every time they feel slightly different.  The impact of fabric choice and quality is never more evident than when you make jeans.

I wanted a pair of true black denim jeans and found it really difficult to find fabric.  I ended up getting some from Threadbare Fabrics in the US, but it doesn't appear to be on their website anymore.  It was described as a stretch denim however the stretch is minimal and there's almost no recovery, but the colour is perfect.  My favourite jeans fabric is the Cone Mills S-Gene stretch denim.  I haven't found anything else that comes close in terms of recovery and not bagging out.

Looking back through my old posts I haven't really documented my changes to the pattern so I'm including them here for future reference.

These are a size 14, view B.  I've narrowed the leg from the knee down by around 1/4 inch and added an extra inch in length.  I've also dropped the back crotch curve by 1/4 inch and taken a 1/4 inch from the back yoke at the middle, tapering out to nothing at the side seams.  There are further adjustments I could make, but I like these and at the moment I'm not particularly concerned.  Nothing in RTW even comes close to fitting me this well or feeling as comfortable.  Also, when I look at the first pair I made five years ago I can see I'm carrying more weight but I haven't traced a larger size so that also accounts for some of the drag lines.

I'm working on my photo set-up, this was my first time using a self-timer and a tripod and they could really use some work. Black is hard enough to photograph let alone adding in a self timer!  My family has zero interest in taking photos for me so I need to get this figured out - particularly how I get the camera to focus on me, not the background!  So much to learn...

I debated whether I should even post this because I kept focusing on the flaws, but I've never been aiming for perfection, just a friendly space to share my makes, so here we are.  Also, it feels good to visually tick something off my April list of sewing plans.

Adding the Morgan Jeans to my collection

The latest addition to my jeans collection, and it's not a pair of Ginger Jeans!

I haven't strayed too far though, these are the Closet Case Patterns Morgan Jeans.  After wearing skinny jeans for so long seeing the more relaxed fit on my body feels a bit strange, but oh they're so comfy!

I made up size 16, added an extra inch to the length (not that I needed to, I ended up removing it) and used a zip fly instead of the button fly as drafted.

I don't know whether it's because I've made so many pairs of Ginger Jeans, but these came together really quickly.  There's a few drag lines so I could probably make a few tweaks to any future versions but they're super wearable so I'm not too worried.

I used a non-stretch denim from Pitt Trading and the top stitching thread left over from a previous jeans project so, with the exception of the zip, these were made entirely from stash items.  I love it when that happens!

I'm experimenting with ways to take my own photos so that I don't have to rely on the family.  These were taken using the self timer function with the camera balanced on a kitchen stool propped up with a tube of hand cream.  Not ideal, but it got the job done.  Progress over perfection right?!

August Sewing Plans

I've had a couple of outfits in my head for a while now that I just can't shake so I'm putting them all into my August plans in the hope that I'll sew them up and get them into my wardrobe.  While we still have months of cold weather to go, I think most of these items should also be able to transition through to spring and even summer.

The first combo is the Birkin flares in a dark denim, Ogden Cami in a pale blue silk crepe de chine and an Esme Cardigan in an ivory merino.

Images via here here here and here

I'm also planning a Birkin flares, wrap blouse combo.  No pattern for the blouse but I'm thinking I'll use the beautiful floral fabric from Blackbird Fabrics (ditched my Archer plans - thought it would be too overwhelming on me).  I like McCalls 7627 for the wrap but it's not available in Australia and the pattern can't be purchased through Vogue/McCalls online either, so I'd have to go hunting on Etsy.  If I can't find anything else in my stash that I can use I might just have to go shopping!

images via here here here and here

The other combo happening includes the Esme cardigan again and McCalls 6886 in black ponte.  

Images via here here and here

There's two more items on my list, the Style Arc Rosemary blouse in red silk crepe de chine and the Vogue 1170 skirt that I included in my April sewing plans.  I put it aside because it needs some fitting adjustments and I wasn't sure how to approach it, but now I'm just going to keep trying things until I find something that works!

Images via here and here

So all up that's:

• 1 pair of jeans
• 1 cardigan
• 1 cami
• 2 tops
• 1 knit dress
• 1 skirt

I really doubt that I'll get it all done but it's nice to have goals!

July Plans

I really want to blog my Style Arc Josie hoodie but I haven't had a chance to take photos, either the weather hasn't cooperated or it has been in the wash, so it's a planning post.  Hoodie coming soon!

My usual style is to make a list a mile long, that's not particularly realistic, and then get frustrated when I don't get it all done.  Crazy, right?  This month I'm going for something a little more realistic, just three things.

Style Arc Dotty Blouse 
This one's already cut out and ready to go.  I actually cut it out last month but then my mojo evaporated and I didn't sew a stitch.  I'm using a really beautiful ivory crepe like fabric from Darn Cheap Fabric.  I'm taking a risk here, the fabric is 100% poly - which I normally stay clear of - but this feels really lush so I'm giving it a go.

Vogue 9204 blouse
I've been feeling so cold at work lately so more long sleeve tops are an absolute necessity.  This top looks really versatile and I have a gorgeous green viscose from Darn Cheap Fabrics picked out for this one.  I'm planning on making view B.

Ginger Jeans
My love for this pattern has no bounds.  I've lost count of how many times I've made it, and despite wanting a black pair of skinny jeans for months, I held off on sewing these up because I thought I should try something different.  Then I realised I was being silly - this pattern works for me so I'm making it happen.  These are already half sewn up.

This denim also came from Darn Cheap Fabrics.  I purchased all three fabrics (and a piece of lace I hope to use soon) back in May when my mum, sister and I had a shopping trip on my birthday weekend.  I've indulged in a little fabric retail therapy to kick start my mojo so I'll be really happy to see these plans become a reality and the fabric move out of my stash and into my wardrobe.

#2017makenine

I'm not on Instagram but love the idea of nominating nine items that you want to make in 2017 so I'm playing along here.

All photos used in the collage above are via the individual pattern companies.

I've loved the Sophie Swimsuit pattern since it was released and wanted to have a pair made up for our recent trip to Byron Bay - I ran out of time but hope to get these made up soon.

I don't know if flares will be popular again this winter but I still love them and plan to make the Birkin Flares from Baste and Gather.  In winter I live in denim so being able to play with a different silhouette will be great.

The Cascade Duffle Coat has been on my to sew list since it was released.  I have all my supplies but I bought the PDF pattern and I just can't bring myself to stick that many pages together!  I've just bought the paper pattern so hopefully this gets made before winter rolls around again.

The Ruby top/dress is another pattern that has been on my radar for ages.  I really want to make both the top and dress variations - I think they'll be really versatile additions to my wardrobe.

The Blaire shirt from Style Arc is a departure from I normally wear but it has been calling my name since it was released.  I'm going to make this in white linen but I love the version my sister just made in a gorgeous rayon.

Number 6 isn't a pattern, it's a gorgeous pieces of fabric.  I couldn't resist the beautiful city lights silk crepe de chine from Tessuti Fabrics but I've been too scared to cut into it in case I stuff it up.  Time to get over it - there's always more beautiful fabric!

Everybody wants beautiful undies and I want to add the Montgomery briefs from Orange Lingerie and the Bella and Esme undies from Evie la Luve to my collection.

I feel like this is a really achievable selection.  There's a nice mix of quick makes and more detailed projects and I know I'll feel pretty awesome if I manage to get all these made up.

So do you Instagram?  I'm tempted to sign up but all the comments about the new algorithms have made me wary.  Are you on Instagram and do you like it?

Ginger Jeans - take one

I'm so impressed with this pattern!  It gives a great result and the sew-along is just fantastic.  I am ridiculously happy with this pair of jeans even though I know that they're far from perfect.

These photos were taken after a long day at a netball tournament and these jeans passed the wear test with flying colours.  Despite sitting down, standing up, jogging and climbing spectator viewing stands these jeans were completely comfortable.  The only twinge of discomfort came from my jeans button, it's irritated my stomach.  I think that's likely the cheap button (not nickle free) - I'll be buying the good hardware from now on.

So, the details.  These are Closet Case Files Ginger Jeans view b (high waist, skinny jeans) in a size 14.  I added one inch in length above the knee and narrowed the calves by taking in both side seams by 1/2 inch tapering to nothing 4 inches below the pattern notch near the knee.  I also moved the position of the back pockets up 1/4 inch and in 1/4 inch.  I also extended the front pockets to form a bit of a waist stay - love the way that worked.  I used a stretch cotton blend fabric for the pocket linings and waistband facing and chose to leave out the waistband interfacing and the leave off the belt loops.

As you can tell from the photos the fit is not perfect.  I'd say about 50 per cent of the wrinkles are due to my poor fabric choice.  I used a moleskin fabric of uncertain content that I bought at Joys Fabric Warehouse back in November.  It has some horizontal stretch, but no vertical stretch and doesn't have great recovery so by the end of the day the knee area and the back of my legs felt really baggy.  My machine really didn't like the top stitching thread, so I ended up with three machines set up and now my sewing room looks like a bomb hit it.  The fly insertion method is unique, but I absolutely love it will use that method from now on.

The areas I really want to focus on for my next pair are the front crotch area (removing the wrinkles there) and removing some of the wrinkles from the back thing area.  Both of these fitting adjustments are covered in the sew-along so I just need to read over it again.  And next time I'll use denim!  

I'm not sure the novelty is going to wear off any time soon - I've already started planning my next pair and I'm thrilled that I've finished one of my top three for winter :)