Getting back to it

I've wanted to step back into this space for a while but felt like I needed to wait for the right moment.  I have no idea what I thought the right moment would look like, so I kept waiting.  Time to just jump straight back in.  

I have a massive list of all the things I want to sew, more than I will ever have time for, and then when I do have time to sew I get distracted by all the projects.  I've spent a bit of time thinking about what I need and what I'd like to make and this is where I landed:

Image via Something Delightful

A black slip.  I'm going to use Butterick 6031. I ended up throwing away my last slip once it had patches in it that had worn through.  Also, my shape had changed (or the slip shrank) as it no longer covered my bum and that's pretty important.  I bought two of Gertie's kits to make these years ago so I have everything I need.  There's several items in my wardrobe I can't wear without a slip so this will be enormously helpful.

Image via Simplicity.com

Camel trousers.  I have some beautiful camel wool that I bought from Clear It several years ago with the intention of making trousers.  I think I'll use Simplicity 8056.  I have practically lived in an old, worn out pair of black pants for the last 12 months so these will be a very welcome change.  Also, they should work really nicely with my predominantly black, white, grey and navy wardrobe.

image via Friday Pattern Company

Cambria Duster.  I bought the fabric and pattern for this thinking it would be great for spring.  It never got done (are you sensing a theme!)  Anyway, I think it will work just as well as a light layer for autumn.  I'm planning on using this Harley fabric from Tessuti.

image via @truebias

Square neck Nikko top.  I've made the Nikko top from True Bias multiple times over the years.  I loved the square neck version that Kelli did using the hack from What Bella Made.  I'm planning on making it in black depending on what fabric is in the stash.

This is a really good jumping off point for me but I know that there'll be other projects that sneak into the queue.  I think this will help keep me on track when I don't know where to start,

Masks: something I never thought I'd make

Like so many others, I've been making masks.  This afternoon even tighter restrictions were announced for Melbourne, we will go from Stage 3 lockdown into Stage 4.  It's necessary, but that doesn't make it any easier.  My sewjo disappeared when we went in to lockdown 2.0 and these are really all that I've been making.  

Now if I have to wear a mask, I'm going to wear one I like and I'm pretty happy with these.  It's a free pattern from Twig and Tale, it's multi size and has a filter pocket.  You can also add a channel for a nose wire but I haven't done that.

These were all made using fabric and elastic from my stash.  I'm lucky to have had supplies on hand as elastic has become pretty hard to come by.  I've made these using three layers of cotton.  The colourful masks have quilting cotton on the outside and inside, with a really tightly woven 1000 thread count sheet for the inner layer.  The black masks have cotton drill on the outside and then the sheet fabric and quilting cotton on the inside.  I've used 5mm and 6mm elastic, as well as narrow fold over elastic for the ear loops.

These have washed and worn really well and it's a really nicely drafted pattern.  

Hopefully the additional restrictions help to control the spread of transmission and we're able to see family and friends again in 6 weeks time.

The Blackwood cardigan - a perfect layer.

When you're six foot tall and you want a long cardigan, you make it yourself.

This is the Blackwood Cardigan from Helen's Closet.  I've made the pattern before but never blogged it, so thought I'd better get on it this time.  I took advantage of the recent 30% off merino sale at The Fabric Store and purchased two beautiful premium weight fabrics in black and paprika.  The fabric is so soft and cozy.

There's a reason that just about every sewing blogger/instagrammer (is that a word?) has made this pattern.  It comes together so quickly and I love the way it looks.  It's not designed to close in the middle so that's something to be aware of.

I've made this up in a large and only made one pattern adjustment and that was to increase the length through the body by 6 inches.  The sleeves are designed to be extra long/bunched up a little and I found that they hit at a great length on my long arms.  I've left the pockets off too.  If I put anything heavier than a tissue in them, they would drag on the front of the cardigan.  The added bonus is that you then pretty much sew this up on your overlocker.

These have been in constant rotation since I finished them a couple of weeks ago.  I'm really surprised by how often I reach for the paprika colour, I really thought I'd wear the black more often but I'm enjoying the injection of colour that the paprika brings to my fairly neutral wardrobe.

I love these cardigans and think I want another one in white! 

Ticking something off the list

I finally finished these black ginger jeans on Good Friday.  I've lost count of how many times I've made this pattern and every time they feel slightly different.  The impact of fabric choice and quality is never more evident than when you make jeans.

I wanted a pair of true black denim jeans and found it really difficult to find fabric.  I ended up getting some from Threadbare Fabrics in the US, but it doesn't appear to be on their website anymore.  It was described as a stretch denim however the stretch is minimal and there's almost no recovery, but the colour is perfect.  My favourite jeans fabric is the Cone Mills S-Gene stretch denim.  I haven't found anything else that comes close in terms of recovery and not bagging out.

Looking back through my old posts I haven't really documented my changes to the pattern so I'm including them here for future reference.

These are a size 14, view B.  I've narrowed the leg from the knee down by around 1/4 inch and added an extra inch in length.  I've also dropped the back crotch curve by 1/4 inch and taken a 1/4 inch from the back yoke at the middle, tapering out to nothing at the side seams.  There are further adjustments I could make, but I like these and at the moment I'm not particularly concerned.  Nothing in RTW even comes close to fitting me this well or feeling as comfortable.  Also, when I look at the first pair I made five years ago I can see I'm carrying more weight but I haven't traced a larger size so that also accounts for some of the drag lines.

I'm working on my photo set-up, this was my first time using a self-timer and a tripod and they could really use some work. Black is hard enough to photograph let alone adding in a self timer!  My family has zero interest in taking photos for me so I need to get this figured out - particularly how I get the camera to focus on me, not the background!  So much to learn...

I debated whether I should even post this because I kept focusing on the flaws, but I've never been aiming for perfection, just a friendly space to share my makes, so here we are.  Also, it feels good to visually tick something off my April list of sewing plans.

April Plans

Well what a month March was!  I started the month with a night out in the city moving from roof top bar to roof top bar and finished the month in isolation.  Along the way I also successfully applied for a new job and handed in my resignation at an organisation that I've worked for for over 15 years.  I've felt all the emotions this month!

There was very little sewing in March.  My black ginger jeans are 90% done - just need to sew the buttonhole and hems and bang in the button.  The wrap top and the bra are not even close, but I still want them and hope to be able to get it done in April.

Images via Tessuti Fabrics, Orange Lingerie and David Jones

So for April I'm planning to make:

• Tessuti Berlin Jacket in black boiled wool from The Cloth Shop Ivanhoe
• Tessuti Many Boat Tee x 2 in green and ivory merino from The Fabric Store
• Orange Lingerie Devonshire Bra
• Trousers/jeans - pattern/s to be determined

I finish up at work on Thursday and have two weeks off before I start in my new role so I'm hopeful that I'll be able to achieve everything on my list this month.

These are all really practical items that will work well during this isolation period as well as filling current gaps in my wardrobe.

Making plans - March

Lately I haven't felt productive.  At the end of the day I'm so tired I just want to fall on the couch and scroll Instagram - which only makes me feel worse!  So I decided to put together some simple plans for March to try and get some balance back.

Images via Orange Theory, Tessuti, Peppermint Magazine and Closet Case Patterns

Here's what I hope to get done:

• Devonshire Bra from Orange Lingerie
• Peppermint wrap top in a gorgeous rhubarb silk satin from Tessuti Fabrics
• Ginger Jeans in true black denim from Threadbare Fabrics

The best part is that I have all the fabrics and patterns in my stash and I've made a start by cutting out the jeans and the bra.

Pretty modest plans but I'm excited to see them come together. 

Aeolian tee - the washed out wonder

Let's be clear up front, washed out wonder refers to the pictures, not the pattern!

The Aeolian tee has been incredibly popular for a reason - it's a great pattern that sews up really quickly and looks great.

My measurements placed me as 12-14 which falls in the medium size range.  As a first go around I decided to make this up as drafted with no additional length or other changes and I really like the way it fits.  I think one of my favourite features is the wide hems, I love the way they look.

For this version I used a viscose jersey from Tessuti Fabrics and I really like the drape it gives the top.  The only thing I would change would be to cut the neckband a little shorter, the drape of the fabric provides just a little bit too much give.

It has possibly been corrected by now but I did note that the pattern has incorrect instructions on the neck facing piece.  It says to cut one on fold, but there is no fold, you just cut one piece. 

I've also seen some great versions of this in a woven fabric and I'd been keen to try that too.  So many patterns, so little time!

Style Arc Sunny Knit Top

On new year's eve I cleaned up my sewing room and counted alllll the projects that I had in various stages of completion.  I had 30!  With another 10 projects waiting to be altered or mended.  This top was one of my WIPs, it was just waiting to be hemmed.

This is the Style Arc Sunny Knit top made up in a gorgeous lilac merino from The Fabric Store.  Total coincidence that my first two projects of 2020 are both called Sunny!  I was drawn to the style lines of this top, quick and easy but with a little bit of interest which is something that I think Style Arc do really well.

Given that I cut this out sometime last year I'm relying on what's in my notepad and on the pattern sheet and it looks like I've made up a straight size 12.  No extra length added and the sleeves and body length are perfect for me.

I really like the cocoon shape, I feel like it sits nicely and is easy to wear.  While the style lines are different I feel like this has quite a similar feel to the Tessuti Mandy boat tee.  Fitted sleeves with volume through the body.  Having made both I do prefer the Style Arc Sunny top. 

I'm really happy that I finished this one off, I'm pretty sure it's going straight into regular rotation.  Now I just need to tackle the rest of the list!

A sunny swimsuit

I have a gorgeous one piece bathing suit from Seafolly.  It's beautifully made, fully lined and includes an underwired shelf bra for extra support.  It's also a complete pain to pull back up into place once it's wet.  I wanted a lovely little bikini to wear in the backyard swimming pool which would make bathroom breaks a breeze.  Enter the Sunny Top from Sew Swimmingly and the Watson bikini pattern from Cloth Habit.

Let's start with the top.  I bought this bikini top pattern as soon as it was released thinking it would work for my daughters and for me.  According to my measurements I'm an XL, the largest size this pattern goes up to (I wear a RTW 12D/34D).  Essentially this is a pretty quick and easy sew, but there were some things with the pattern and instructions I disliked and after swimming in the top I'd make changes in the future.

 My first issue was with the pattern.  It says to cut 1 of the side cups, when it should say cut one pair or cut 2.  A pretty basic mistake that I picked up as I was laying out the pattern pieces (this may have been fixed since I bought the pattern).

I found the style of the instructions a bit odd.  It was almost like there was a summary statement and then the step by step instructions, which I found confusing rather than helpful.

Some information appears to be missing and at times the instructions don't appear to match the accompanying images.  When attaching the elastic around the straps and neckline, the photos show the elastic starting down from the top edge of the straps, but this isn't referenced in the instructions at all.  I started the elastic 3/8 inch down from the top edge and this worked well. 

I also found the images for this section confusing.  The instructions state that you place the lining fabric and outer fabric together and then attach the elastic, but the lining fabric isn't shown in the accompanying photo.

The extra wide neckline is lovely, but those straps aren't comfortable for lots of swimming.  I found that they tended to rub the under arms.  I would also prefer that the bottom edge was finished with an elastic band rather than a self binding - it didn't feel particularly secure.  Once wet, the top rode up at the back and I wonder is that's also because there's no elastic in the bottom to help it stay in place.

If I make this again I would use a self lining, as there was no way I could find to stop it peaking out when you finish the edges as instructed.  I would also reshape the neckline to move the straps further towards the center front, curve the top edge of the bust in a little bit more to make the fit more secure, add 1/2 inch extra length and finish the bottom with elastic.

I may tinker with this pattern and make it again if my daughters want it, but I'm not sure I'd make it again for me.

The bikini bottoms couldn't have been more different.  I sewed these up in a medium with a couple of simple changes.  I added 1/2 inch to the back rise graded out to nothing out the side seams, I removed the front crotch seam and fully lined these.  Totally love them.  Comfy to swim in and I love the way they look.

Such a long post for such a small pieces of clothing!  I love swimwear and I'm hoping to make up a few more patterns before summer is over.

A mighty sports bra to start the new year

Happy New Year!  2019 was quite the year: some amazing highs including a family trip to the USA and some awful lows with my gorgeous sister battling breast cancer and lots of other ups and downs in between. 

Through 2019 I started to focus more on my health and fitness and I've set myself some challenging goals for 2020.  Which leads me to one of my favourite makes of 2019, the mighty sports bra.

I knew I wanted to make the version with the mesh overlays and I prefer a back closure as it makes it easier to get on and off.  My measurements put me in a large, which is what I made.  I wear a 12D/34D in RTW bras.

The fabrics all came from Pitt Trading, the closure and fold over elastic from Evie La Luve and the wide band elastic from Tailor Made Shop.

I really enjoyed sewing this up.  It came together quickly and the instructions give a nice clean finish on the inside.  I self lined the top and found that, combined with the mesh overlay, there was enough support for me to feel comfortable running at a moderate pace on the treadmill.  I did manage to sew the closure on backwards so it's not perfect but I've already cut out a second.  If/when I make a third I will probably add a half inch extra length.